Thursday, January 9, 2014

another pair of ill-fitting pants

Before I start, let me just say that this post is not particularly interesting. It is mostly for personal reference.

Last post I compared the two flat pants patterns from Simplicity 7087 and 5299. We've already seen 7087's pants, so lets compare it to my first version of 5299, unfinished (I didn't do the waistband or hem the legs) for fitting.

The 7087s are in navy, the 5299s are in black. (side note: It was so hard to get picture you could see! I ended up flipping through all the settings on my fancy camera and, fittingly, "retro" mode takes great photos of fitting wrinkles!)

Back:


Zipper side:




Non-zipper side:



Front:




Whew! The black pair from my chosen wardrobe pattern fits interestingly does it not? I think I have low hips (the things we think when we sew), so there's a lot of space in the torso (but not the waist). Fortunately many of the wrinkles can be pinned out of the top. Also the side with the zipper fits better than the unzippered side, surprisingly, which I think is because of the extra bulk of the zipper in that not-filled-with-hips space. I lengthened the inside set of darts on the front and the outside set of darts on the back, each by 1", and took out a tiny bit on the non-zip hip, which improved the fit.



In stage two, I improved the butt sagginess. I used a modified (read: lazy) version of Kenneth King's alteration, seen in this Threads article on just how to fix the baggy-seat issue. While poking around on the internet, I found some delightful person had created a pants fitting pinterest board! The two main fixes for bagginess under the seat are pinching out a dart at the hip line detailed here OR taking a dart/slash out just below the crotch line, a la Mr. King. I stood in the mirror and tried both, and decided to try Kenneth King's because 1. it seemed more appropriate for my shape (I really doubt the under-butt sag was cause by lack of butt) and 2. it seemed easier.


Soooo much better than before. Its still not smooth--but remember, this pattern does not call for stretch fabric specifically, and I would like to be able to sit down. I am thinking about making the same pattern with my adjustments in a slightly stretchy fabric just to see how it reacts.



My under-butt alterations didn't fix my front crotch issues, but it didn't aggravate it either. Side profile looks much better--the side seam still has the diagonal wrinkles, but not as drastic as before, and the leg profile is much better. 

So my question for you is: what's the deal with my front wrinkles? They don't extend through the CF seam. What is the deal?! 

Alternately: if these pants are BLACK and you can't see any of these problems without messing with your camera for ages, should you even bother? Would you wear these out in public? Should I maybe hem the legs and attach the waistband before doing so?


xoxo
Allie


3 comments:

  1. This is such a detailed and informative post - and thank you for all the links! Wish I could help you with the answer to some of your questions, but I will say that if you can't really tell (unless you mess with your camera), then I would totally wear those out in public once you're finished hemming and adding on a waistband.

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    Replies
    1. That pinterest board is amazing, so we should thank the mystery lady who made it for the links. Its good to hear you appreciate the detail as I was quite worried it was long and tedious!

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  2. I will help you privately if you send me your email address...Mrs Mole... surroundedbywhite@gmail.com

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